Short Strin tillering?

[larze_fat]

I have a few questions on short string tillering. First, when do you know when you are ready to do it after long string tillering? Second, how long do you make the short tillering string?

[CraigMBeckett]

Short answer is you go to short string tillering as soon as possible.

The aim is to get the string short enough for the bow to be properly braced as soon as you can. Most people brace their bows at something like 6 inches in height, so when the tips of your bow move by that amount you should be on a short string.
The long string is not really long, it should be only long enough that you can place it over both tips.

Short strings subject the bow tips to greater stresses than long strings. You will only need to blow one bow up by going too far with the long string then trying to get it braced with a short string  to never be so stupid again.

Craig

[Del the cat]

Just like Craig says.
A handy trick is to cut a small piece of ply wood with two holes close together like a figure '8' smooth them well and thread your long string round and round through the holes to effectively shorten it.
This gives you an adjustable string which saves a lot of effort making multiple strings.
Those of you who have read this tip umpeen times, please forgive the repetition, but I think it's a top tip and I should get some sort of award for it (that's joke guys...honest )
Del

[Pat B]

I go to a short string when I get about 6" to 8" of tip movement and I'm sure both limbs are close with no hinges. The first bracing on the short string should be low, about 4" or so. This will tell you for sure that both limbs are bending evenly and together and that the string lines up down the bow.
  My tiller string(all of my bow strings too) has a loop for the top limb and a bowyers knot(timber hitch) for the bottom limb so string length adjustments is easy.

[El Destructo]

Just like Craig says.
A handy trick is to cut a small piece of ply wood with two holes close together like a figure '8' smooth them well and thread your long string round and round through the holes to effectively shorten it.
This gives you an adjustable string which saves a lot of effort making multiple strings.
Those of you who have read this tip umpeen times, please forgive the repetition, but I think it's a top tip and I should get some sort of award for it (that's joke guys...honest )
Del

Pictures Del....Pictures..............

[George Tsoukalas]

That is a very good question.  When I get good limb movement at 10 in of sing movement and when I get target weight +5 # I go to the short string. There are buildalongs on my site illustrating what I mean. Jawge
http://georgeandjoni.home.comcast.net/~georgeandjoni/

[sailordad]

I dont even use a long string,i floor tiller untill i can get a brace of 4"
then i have several strings that i use from that point on(depending on bow lenth)
once i can get a brace of 6",i make a string for the bow that stays with it from then on.
good luck  and use Georges site,it will help immensly

[Del the cat]

Just like Craig says.
A handy trick is to cut a small piece of ply wood with two holes close together like a figure '8' smooth them well and thread your long string round and round through the holes to effectively shorten it.
This gives you an adjustable string which saves a lot of effort making multiple strings.
Those of you who have read this tip umpeen times, please forgive the repetition, but I think it's a top tip and I should get some sort of award for it (that's joke guys...honest )
Del

Pictures Del....Pictures..............

Thar ya go...hope you can see it from the pic.
Del

[El Destructo]

Thanks Del...I have never seen this Before...got a Question though...have you ever had a String fail from being wrapped in this while working on a Bow? Looks like it could cause the String to fail where it bends sharply...or am I just worrying for nothing??

                                                                        Thanks for sharing

[Del the cat]

Thanks Del...I have never seen this Before...got a Question though...have you ever had a String fail from being wrapped in this while working on a Bow? Looks like it could cause the String to fail where it bends sharply...or am I just worrying for nothing??

                                                                        Thanks for sharing

Yes you are worrying about nothing (don't you have a wife for that? )
It's an old rather overbuilt string from a heavyish longbow (I think), but all the strain on a string is when it's shot, it wouldn't fail during tillering.
I have actually shot with the string like that, but not at full draw, I just couldn't resist it .
The wooden toggle thingy could possibly damage the limb if it was shot at full draw.
The holes are well smoothed and rounded.
I use it a lot and it saves on lots of effort.
Del

[El Destructo]

And I thank You for posting Pictures...It may be Old Hat to some...but I have never seen one till now...and now I think I'll go out and make Me one too.....

[George Tsoukalas]

Stringing a stave that is too heavy is not good for the stave. It could break or take needless extra set. 10-15# over final target weight is about ideal. IMHO.If you don't want to use the long string as I do, then perhaps the veteran bowyers have the ability to determine when the staves is 10-15# over final target weight before stringing it.  Jawge