Two feather and spine?

[Swamp Bow]

The topic(s) about cane shafting got me to wonder about two feather fletching on cane or boo shafts.  I've started playing with two feather fletching for a couple of reasons, one of which is that you don't have to worry about cock feather orientation when in a hurry (hunting etc.).  The comments about spine made me realize that of course I still need to worry about it (well duh ).  How do folks deal with it?

Swamp

[stringstretcher]

Having only shot a couple of two fletched arrow,  I can not shoot well enough to see any difference in short range shooting between 2, 3, or 4 fletch.  Although 4 fletch will stabilize better with hunting tip, there is no difference to me.  Now if you were shooting long distances,,,,definately a problem with spine.

[Kegan]

Before I start, I've never had a problem nocking a three feather arrow quickly- even if you don't have an indexer, properly spined arrows will flex around the bow the same and strike the same spot, the only difference being a little feather wear.

On to the question. Just like anything dealing with fletching, less drag means more cirtical the arrows. I bareshaft tune my arrows before I fletch them. If an arrow will fly and hit the mark at 20 yards without any feathers, just putting something on the arrow butt will help. If the arrow is well tuned, then you won't have to worry.

On a side note, it's been said arrows with really high FOC balance make fletching effect magnified. SO a really heavy point or foreshaft makes the two feather more effective. From the little experimentation, it seems that at about 20% it seems to be true (or at least seems so).

[artcher1]

You would be real lucky to have your arrow shoot the same from either side. And even if you were so lucky that'll probably change using a different bow . So you still have to index your arrows some way. You just can't get the same amount of rotation that you get with a three fletch so your shaft must be true and well matched to your bow. But if'n your bow likes 'em I'd reckon you will too! ART

[Kegan]

It's all in the tuning. I bareshaft tune the same arrows from all my own hunting bows, adjusting the arrow pass as necessary to get perfect flight. I shoot the same arrows from multiple bows. Likewise, if three low, small 3" feathers are enough for many archers, two larger feathers should be enough- especially if you put a good twist to them.

Don't worry, just tune it all up and do whatever you'd like !

[artcher1]

Are you shooting around-the-handle bows or through-the-handle bows Kegan ? Even the best shooters I know can't get the best possible flight from these types of arrows with less than a 5 1/2" fletch. Of course, they don't shoot center shot bows. ART

[Pat B]

Swamp, On every cane shaft you will have a stiff side. Place that side against the bow. It generally won't shoot the same if you flip it over.
  I index my arrows because I don't look at the arrow when loading and shooting. I use a drop of glue(Duco works best) on the nock opposite the stiff side. I place a drop just in front of the nock and when the glue skins over I lay the shaft down with the glue drop down. When it sets it makes a small blob that I can feel with my thumb and know how the arrow should go on the string.   A well placed knot in the sinew wrap will also work.

[Swamp Bow]

I guess indexing is still the way to go, which makes absolute sense.  PatB I like the idea of the sinew knot.  Just out of curiosity what did the NA that used two fletched arrows do?

Swamp

[Pat B]

Another option that was used in the early days of American archery(maybe before that) was to make one of the nock ears a bit shorter than the other and use that as your index. I have not tried this but I think I will on some of my arrows.
  I have never heard reference to Native Americans indexing their arrows so someone else will have to address that.