A curious handle question

[hedgeapple]

I shoot with web of my hand between my thumb and index finger being presure point when drawing my bow.  The heel of my palm and my pinky finger don't touch the bow.  They would just slight touch even if I moved my hand down to the fades.  So, my question is, is there any reason why I shouldn't reduce the handle section from the 4 to 5 inch norm to a 2 or 3 inch handle?  Since I"m not really using all of the handle anyway, why not add it to the working limbs of my bow?

Before you suggested it, I'm already working on a bend-thru-handle D-bow.  I love the looks of a D-bow, but I'm thinking I might miss the "sight window" created by a bow with fades.

[Del the cat]

You go for it, shorter handle=shorter bow.
Fit it to your own style of shooting, that's the great fun of building 'em our selves..none of this shop bought stuff with 2 foot long risers!
I have a similar grip to you but find I occasionally get some bruising to the joint at the base of my thumb, mind I am shooting a 75# ELB.
I prefer this grip, it also means I don't need a bracer as my wrist and lower forearm is further from the bow string.
Individuality is good....
(Post some pics when you've built it!)
Del

[Pat B]

I've been making my bows with bulbous handles and the limbs bend right to the handle. With a bulbous handle it is easy to accomplish. The bows look like they bend through the handle but the handle is actually stiff so I guess there is only 2" to 3" that does not bend.

[hedgeapple]

Pat, could you show me some pictures of your bulbous handle bows?

[Pat B]

Here are 2 bows, one with the finished handle with rattan wrap and one showing the bare handle with leather packing on the back to fill out the handle. I use the leather on the back and belly sometimes for a bendy handle bow.

[hedgeapple]

Pat, Thanks that pretty much what I was thinking of doing.  It doesn't appear as though you have much of a fade at the bottom of the handles.  Looks like the handle is pretty much the same width as the bottom limb.  Is that correct?  I love the looks of both of these.  Thanks again.  Dave

[radius]

hedge, i made some holmegaards this year with "palm" area being only 2.5" long.  It is very comfortable.  Here's a pic.






The handle doesn't bend, but it is short, and i find it feels good in my hand.

[Pat B]

Dave when I make a bulbous handle I start with a 4" handle centered on the bow. In the center of the handle I make a 1 1/4" diameter circle and at the top and bottom of the handle I draw a 1" dia circle. The fades on my osage bows is usually about 1 3/8" to 1 1/2" and average generally 1 1/2" out from the handle. I draw a line from the fade to the small circle then the bigger(center) circle then the other smaller circle and then the other fade. Do this on both sides and that gives you the outline of the bulbous handle. When shaping the handle I round off the edges so it fits comfortable in my hand. I then add the leather to the back and shape that so the entire handle is comfortable.
  I don't use the oval shaped leather any more. I just cut the leather 4" long and trace the outline of the handle. Cut it out to shape and taper the ends so it will blend into the rest of the handle. I generally use TBIII to glue down the leather but after it cures I saturate the leather with super glue to seal it and to make it easier to shape. You can make cool looking tip overlays with leather saturated with super glue too.
 

[Dave 55]

Very nice looking bow Pat.

[Pat B]

Scott, I very rarely use power tools with the leather because it takes too much off too quickly but thanks for the warning. We should all be aware of toxic dust not only from glues and finishes but woods also and protect ourselves(and our dogs  ) from them.

[hedgeapple]

Pat, thanks once again.  I would not have thought of using the circle mythod.  Very cool.  I think I'll experiment on some scrap wood to see what feel good for me.  I've also, thought about getting some clay and putting it on a piece of wood then squeezing the wood and clay as I would grip a bow.  Then round off the sharp edges and it should give me a good representation of a handle that would match my grip.

Scott, thanks for the warning.
Thanks Radius for sharing your handle.