Author Topic: Ipe questions  (Read 3513 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline Parnell

  • Member
  • Posts: 5,556
Ipe questions
« on: November 23, 2009, 10:25:16 am »
Hi gang,

I've made a few bows with Ipe in the past.  I've got Bamboo I've thinned down, getting close, and a couple of blanks. 
I've read and seen so many Ipe/boo, Ipe/Hick, bows but I'm wondering a couple of things...

What's the better method for bending Ipe - dry heat, steam, boiling?

Also, what's the ideal glue for laminating on a boo backing?  I've really only used TB3 up to this point but am wondering if an epoxy of some sort would be a better outcome.

Thoughts?

Thanks,

Parnell
1’—>1’

Offline M-P

  • Member
  • Posts: 876
  • PA731115
    • Traveling Surgery
Re: Ipe questions
« Reply #1 on: November 23, 2009, 11:01:45 am »
Parnell,  I don't think ipe heat bends very well.  I haven't tried it, but a couple of IPE bows have been posted here that had the tips flipped into decent recurves by sawing the tip into two or more laminations.  Ron
"A man should make his own arrows."   Omaha proverb   

"There are three kinds of men. The one that learns by reading. The few who learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence for themselves."    Will Rogers

Offline Parnell

  • Member
  • Posts: 5,556
Re: Ipe questions
« Reply #2 on: November 23, 2009, 11:04:25 am »
Ok - so when I'm seein the deflex/reflex, It's coming from a form on glue up?
1’—>1’

Offline bcbull

  • Member
  • Posts: 541
Re: Ipe questions
« Reply #3 on: November 23, 2009, 11:30:55 am »
PARNNELL  OK  THE BIG THING WITH  IPE IS  IT S SO DARN HARD   ALMOST IMPOSSIBLE TO  STEM AND HEAT BEND   BEST WAY  IV FOUND  IS  TO  DO IT IN A FORM  RICH  MADE A BOW THE OTHER DAY   THATS JUST THAT THINK IT S ON PAGE 3 NOW  I KNOW FOR A FACT TB 3  WORK S JUST FINE FOR GLUEING UP  IPE  RICH HAS DONE  WAY MOREN I HAVE OF EM  AND THATS ALL HE USES  SO  JUST GET UR BIKE TUBES AND TB 3 OUT AND GLE IT UP  USE THE R/ D FORM  YOULL BE FINE   YOU COULD  USE URAC 185  TO  BUT AS WELL AS TB 3 WORKS  WHY GO TO ALL THE TRUBLE ?    BROCK

Offline Parnell

  • Member
  • Posts: 5,556
Re: Ipe questions
« Reply #4 on: November 23, 2009, 11:47:51 am »
Cool - thanks Brock.
1’—>1’

Offline adb

  • Member
  • Posts: 5,339
Re: Ipe questions
« Reply #5 on: November 23, 2009, 01:07:11 pm »
I just use TB3 for glue-ups for hick/ipe or bbi. Make sure you clean the ipe well with acetone or something similar before glung, as ipe has natural oils.
I've had exactly 0 success with heat bending ipe. Glue forming, no problem.

Offline avcase

  • Member
  • Posts: 485
Re: Ipe questions
« Reply #6 on: November 23, 2009, 02:03:03 pm »
I gave up degreasing ipe with acetone years ago and haven't had a failure since with the following glues:
-Tightbond III
-Weldwood Recorcinol
-Weldwood Plastic Resin Glue

I sand the mating surfaces with a fine grit prior to glue up, wipe dust clean, and do the glue up within 24 hours. Otherwise, the surface tends to oxidize and reducing the chances for success.  Make sure there is a perfect fit between mating pieces and apply the glue to both mating faces. I also give the glue PLENTY of time to set up. TB III intoduces a lot of moisture into the wood so I will often leave it in the form for as long as a week if I can find the patience. 

All my ipe delaminations have been with various epoxy adhesives (with and without degreasing).
Alan

Offline Justin Snyder

  • Administrator
  • Member
  • Posts: 13,794
Re: Ipe questions
« Reply #7 on: November 23, 2009, 02:35:24 pm »
Ipe doesn't bend so easy with heat. My solution is on page 2. http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,7923.15.html
Everything happens for a reason, sometimes the reason is you made a bad decision.


SW Utah

Offline adb

  • Member
  • Posts: 5,339
Re: Ipe questions
« Reply #8 on: November 23, 2009, 03:00:20 pm »
I gave up degreasing ipe with acetone years ago and haven't had a failure since with the following glues:
-Tightbond III
-Weldwood Recorcinol
-Weldwood Plastic Resin Glue

I sand the mating surfaces with a fine grit prior to glue up, wipe dust clean, and do the glue up within 24 hours. Otherwise, the surface tends to oxidize and reducing the chances for success.  Make sure there is a perfect fit between mating pieces and apply the glue to both mating faces. I also give the glue PLENTY of time to set up. TB III intoduces a lot of moisture into the wood so I will often leave it in the form for as long as a week if I can find the patience. 

All my ipe delaminations have been with various epoxy adhesives (with and without degreasing).
Alan
Ditto





Rich Saffold

  • Guest
Re: Ipe questions
« Reply #9 on: November 23, 2009, 04:39:34 pm »
I do pretty much what Alan posts as well.  I wait at least a day, and usually two before I remove it from the form, and then I clean it up on the sander and let it sit outside in the sun to finish drying..I'm not working on the blanks for several days, and its usually dry and warm here..

Tonites glue up is osage backed with Ipe, and then I'll try the opposite for kicks too..

Rich