<30lb bow...what to use?

[makenzie71]

I'd been trying to use red oak...I've done bamboo backing, paper backing, fiberglass backing, kevlar backing, and no backing...every time I get around the 30lb mark the bow breaks or the draw weight just completely fades away.  I'm trying to work some deals to get some better wood in for something like this but am curious if there would be something "ideal"?  I want 25~28lbs at 25".

Opinions are greatly appreciated.

[adb]

I've made many light weight bows from maple.

[Canoe]

Howdy Makenze,

I have recently completed two Red Oak kid's bows, they are about 20# @ 20" (both are 48" long).  They have little set and shoot just fine.  Also, I've made a few Red Oak hunting weight bows (45 to 50# @ 28"+), they also have little set and shoot well.  Some of these bows are backed with silk, the others have no backing.

I get my red Oak from the BigBox Stores, but I'm very selective in choosing my boards.  I only buy boards with very straight grain running the whole lengthof the board on the sides and edges.

Also, I follow tillering / bow making guides that are posted in the How-To section or on some of these guys own web sites.

Red Oak in a fine wood for making bows, but, just like when using Maple, Hickory, etc. you have to start with a good board / stave.  And, you have to follow some guide on making bows.

I hope this is helpful,
Canoe

[coyote pup]

I would not use boards for bows, unless you had a say in how they were cut and how the wood was dried. Try a stave. If you don't have access to bow wood trees, maybe you can trade for one with somebody.

[makenzie71]

Thanks Canoe.  Most of my bows are red oak board bows and I, too, get really selective when it comes to picking them out.  Grain runs the whole length...absolutely NO run-out on any side.  I really like working with red oak and all of my personal bows are red oak, pulling between 45lbs and 72lbs...backed various ways.  I don't have any issues getting down to the 20lb and under area...it's that 25~30lb mark I'm after that I seem to have issues with.  It seems I go straight from 35lbs to broken (in some fashion or another).  Red oak just has not proven to be very forgiving of me.

Coyote...I actually have a couple of listings in the trading post to get some better lumber for my own little personal projects.  I make little wire figures and I have a ton of brazilian cherry (we believe) I've been trading off.

[Josh]

make them really narrow.  That will give you more belly wood to scrape off. Its way harder to tiller a bow that is 2 inches wide to 25-30lbs than it is to tiller one that is 1 inch wide to the same drawlength/draw weight. Hope this helps.    -josh

[radius]

i've made very lightweight bows of red oak that took no set and with horrendous grain step down...i just made them quite long

[medicinewheel]

Well I've used Rattan (Manau) for several kid's bows, short with large recurves; finished in an hour or two, and with the recurves they shoot just fine.
And yes, if I would try such a light weight bow with any wood I would make it really narrow, too!

[The Gopher]

no offense to coyote but i can't even begin to imagien how many kids bows and huntign weight bows have been made from boards that the bowyer had zero control over. good grain, proper design and careful tillering can overcome all.

Josh is right make, make them thinner. thinner limbs will need to be thicker, which means that you are removing less wood per scrape and you'll be able to close in on the final weight easier. i make kids bows 1 inch wide the entire length, tapering the last 6" or so to half inch tips. about 50" total bow length.

[Aries]

You can make very servisable bows from red oak boards if they have the proper ring orentation.  I will sort through the entire bin of boards in a home depot and only come out with maybe one or two tops. Look for rings that run vertically from the back to the belly of the bow. my successful bows have come from this type of ring orientation and other ring types have failed on me. If you take your time tillering you usually wont need a backing on red oak, but it is suggested for beginners or if you are using less than quality wood.  Ty

[makenzie71]

One of the boards I picked up for this type of thing was what would be a PERFECT board for a bow...only instead of the rings going across the width of the cut they went across the height (don't know what it's called).  I mean the entire width of the bow would be 3/4".  I've never tried one that narrow...anyone foresee any issues?

[sailordad]

I would not use boards for bows, unless you had a say in how they were cut and how the wood was dried. Try a stave. If you don't have access to bow wood trees, maybe you can trade for one with somebody.

i have to ask,whats wrong with a board for a bow?
all ya gotta do is be picky and dig thru the pile and find the one with ideal grain, i prefer quarter sawn myself.
as far as how its dried,nothing wrong with kiln dried,dried is dried.i still know of a sawmill that air dries still to this day.
bows have been made from boards for a long time,even commercially made bows.
nice thing with a board bow is they are cheap to make,a stave can set some of us back a few bucks.not everyone can cut their own bow wood.
and trading for them,especialy ifn your new to this hobby,can be out of the question if you dont have materials gathered for trading..


as far as how to make a light weight bow,i agree with gopher.
make it narrow to keep more belly wood and it doesnt get to thin.

[adb]

I would not use boards for bows, unless you had a say in how they were cut and how the wood was dried. Try a stave. If you don't have access to bow wood trees, maybe you can trade for one with somebody.

Have you made any board bows? I've made many, and the vast majority have been completely adequate. NOTHING wrong with board bows. Actually, it's probaby the best way for a new bowyer to get started.

[kylerprochaska]

Can't go wrong with Osage...

-Ky