Dowel rods

[Canoe]

Howdy PatB and others,

This thread is very interesting to me because I had recently read that dowels are too inconsistent, in spine to make arrows from.  Yet, it sounds  as though some folks are having success in doing so.   And, I have about eight, straight grained, Red Oak dowels that I would really like to make into arrows.
 
I also read that 3/8" Red Oak dowels tend to have a spine up around 80 to 90 lb.s. 
So, how much sanding does it take to bring the spine down to the 50 lb.s range?  Is it worth the effort?
And, can I use 36 grit sand paper or do I have to use something a little finer like 100 grit?  I guess I could use a finer grit as I approach a 50 lb spine.  (Yes, PatB, I'll put the dowels into a hand drill chuck when I try this.)

I also have a pile of dried shoots that I collected earlier this spring (Red Osier Dogwood, Cherry, and Basswood).  I'm looking forward to getting started on these, and I'm sure I'll be asking plenty of questions when I get going. (I've already spent some time heat straightening these shoots, but they need a lot more work in straightening and reducing their thickness (spine)).

Oh, BTW, I'm building a spine tester this week.

Thanks Guys,
Canoe

[Kegan]

The inconsistency of dowels means that if you buy 100 dowels, they will gane from say, 35-40 (some really crummy ones), all the way to 100+ for the super-stiff ones. Once you spine them out, then it's the same thing as a store bought arrow shaft.

For bows up to about 50#, hardwood dowels can be bought at 5/16". Saves you alot of sanding- you'll jsut have to be very careful to buy only the stiffer ones.

[scattershot]

Another trick is to leave them long. I once got a 108# bare shaft to fly from a 50# bow. Of course, it was 32" long and had a 160 grain point, but it flew. I have a 26" draw, BTW. Try those oak shafts full length, and trim as necessary. You may be surprised. Also, as the shaft gets stiffer, there's less difference in deflection. In other words, an 80# shaft and a 90# shaft will be closer in spine than a 20# shaft and a 30# shaft.

[Canoe]

Howdy ScatterShot,

That's a very interesting comment you made in pointing out the connection between spine and arrow length.
When a 32" arrow's spine is measured at 28", the resulting spine(?) (bendiness) will increase.  So, yes, we can adjust arrow flex by changing the length.

Also noted, was the connection between arrow tip weight and spine. 
To change the weight of your glued-on arrow tip will affect the flex (spine) of the arrow when it is shot.

I know of two other interesting, related factors that affect flight; first is the overall arrow weight.  Bear Archery published an article stating that a 600 grain arrow has a much higher penetration than a 500 grain arrow.  (so, to increase the arrow length will increase its weight - increase its penetration).
 
Secondly, to adjust the weight of the glued-on arrow tip affects, again, the overall arrow weight  and the Balance Point of the arrow.  See, we can measure (with a ruler) the Center Point of an arrow.  (It's half of the total length).  But the Balance Point is where, on the arrow, there is equal weight on eather side of that point - (like a seesaw).  Balance Point can be adjusted by changing the weight of the arrow tip.  And, when the Balance Point is forward of the Center Point, you'll get improved flight.  Furthermore, when your set of arrows all have the same Balance Point, their flight will be very consistant.

So, we have Spine, Arrow Length, Arrow Weight, and Balance Point of the arrow to conceder.

(Also, I think, the more red stripes you put on your arrow, the faster it goes - I know this is true for race cars.)

Really, that's more than I  know about arrows.  But I've been doing some reading and thinkin' about this stuff. 
Now, I'm going outside to get started on building that Spine Tester.

Thanks for listening and for your comments,
Canoe

[scattershot]

hadn't thought of the red stripes, I'll have to give that a try!

Good shooting!
Gene