flipping tips???

[Shooter_G22]

ok people,

   i was thinking of trying to make another board bow...  i still have several blanks of pecan cut out of the board i had cut several months back...  and im wanting to start on another bow.. or a few trying to get some bows made up for the boys on the team only thing is last time i went through 3-4 blanks.. they kept cracking or snaping on me..lol...   but i have the blanks cut about 2" wide and about 58 -60 long and about 5/8" to 3/4" thick... of coarse i will be glueing a handle and glueing a pecan backing of about 1/8" thick....   but i wanted to try and flip the tips on one and i figured that i would just boil the tips and vise down some kind of rig to bend them right???   well
here is my question...

last time i used an epoxy that you would get for fiberglass bondo it was a marine text...   used for boat repair or automotive repair...  i used this epoxy for my glue... 

but this time i am going to leave the fiberglass cloth out... and use some titebond III and just glue the 1/8" pecan backing with out the fiber cloth in between...

***  sooo   my quetion is***   if i glue a 1/8" pecan backing on the the bord blank and then start to shape the limbs or narrow the width to shape and then start to work the stave into a bow and get it to flexing and gett it to a floor tiller would i then flip the tips by boiling them and when i boil them would it then disolve the glue from the backing and creat a big mess of the project???

***  does boiling the tips loosing the titebond III glue from the board and backing???

it will be about a week or soo befor i even attempt to start this project for i want to get Craftsman 14" bandsaw i put on lawaway at a pawn shop out so i can use the thing to get my bow intoi shape...   im hopeing once i get the bandsaw i will be producing alot more bows or trying to anyways...lol...  or at least some board bows anyhow...

thanks for any tips or advice... i really need some help on this i dont want to mess it all up and get fustrated and discouraged..   again!!!

thnks...

[Justin Snyder]

Boiling will release the backing from the bow.  If I am trying to disassemble a bow that is glued with TB, I steam it and it will come right apart. I don't recommend that much water for any bow.  You would have to put it away for a month or two to dry out before working again. I don't know that there is a good way to flip the tips on a glued up bow.  I have had better luck bending the pieces to match before glue up.  Justin

[Jesse]

You can still temper the belly and add a little reflex after glue up with Tb3 if you glued it up straight and dont want string follow.  Just dont let the glue line get hot. A quick cooking of the belly is all you can get away with. Ive done it with no problem. But flipping the tips might create to much heat I think . I heard TB lets go at 150 deg. or so. I think Its best like Justin said to do any hard curve bending before gluing but for reflex or any curves you can get away with that wont crack the wood just clamp the curve in while the glue is still wet. That the easiest way   

[Badger]

You can also filp the tips durring the glueing process by  thinning your outer limb and using a tapered wedge between the backing and the belly strip, just glueing the curve in, or use a mthod called kerfing where you saw a kerf into the end of the limb allowing it to easil bend then using glue in the kerf glue it back together in a curve. Steve

[George Tsoukalas]

You've got to take the stave to at least the floor tillering stage before reflexing or recurving. If the wood is too thick "flipping the tips" is pretty difficult. Jawge